Meyjitte Boughenout collaborates with Ecco Bistro owner and chef Philip Johnson .
Philip Johnson's Ecco Bistro
The Benchmark on the Coast
Absynthe Restaurant owner Meyjitte Boughenout has garnered many honours.
And so has Philip Johnson. There’s Michelin Stars, Gourmet Traveller Australian Restaurant of the year accolades and a myriad of other marks of distinction. With wines supplied by Craggy Range both Chef Boughenhout and Chef Johnson were given the job of expertly matching these wines with an assemblage of 6 courses.
To utter that I was a small bit thrilled to be sitting down to dine with these 2 prominent figures in our states dining direction would be a tad dry.
Food
Lightly cured ocean trout, white chocolate cannelloni, almond coriander paste – M. Boughenhout
Cauliflower veloute, pan-fried scallop, green olive bubble – M. Boughenhout
Beetroot risotto, goats cheese, pickled golden beets, candied walnuts – P. Johnson
Roast quail, cotechino sausage, peas, sweet corn and basil – P. Johnson
Braised lamb shank with sultana raisins, celeriac puree, mushroom ravioli – M. Boughenhout
Iced coconut parfait, sesame wafer, pineapple sorbet, lime and pineapple salsa – P. Johnson
Visit Craggy Range.com
Wine
2008 Fletcher Family Riesling, Marlborough NZ
2008 Gimbett Gravels Chardonnay, Hawke’s Bay NZ
2008 Sluicings Pinot Noir, Central Otago NZ
2007 ‘Sophia’ Merlot/Cabernet Franc, Hawke’s Bay NZ
2007 ‘Le Sol’ Syrah, Hawke’s Bay NZ
2006 ‘Noble’ Sauvignon Blan/Riesling, Martinbourough NZ
Those unfamiliar with the restaurant will applaud the wine on display behind the glass of the floor to ceiling cellar. The bar is compact and welcoming for an aperitif of the green muse. Dining is also in close quarters, with a minimalist approach to art aside from 2 glorious tulip’esque obelisks. The customer is compelled to converge to the art that adorns Absynthe’s plates thus not consuming ones observations with excessive décor. And think about it, the fabric of what Meyjitte is creating here is on the plate, not the walls.
The first of 6 offerings arrive on a table that shies away from linen, why conceal matchless furnishings with costly cloth, I be of the same mind. The cannelloni here was a real unearthing.
Cured Tasmanian Trout
Curled around a mound of ocean trout pearls was a palpable high quality white chocolate allowing a bitter sweetness to battle it out with the salty vesicles of roe. The trouts preparation saw the protein of the fish altering it’s usual cooked state to a jelly like diversion.
Spherification on the Gold Coast.
Appearing next came a single scallop, allowed the cookery process to just 1 side, keeping the pure texture whilst permitting the natural sugars to caramelize to welcome supplementary flavour. The ‘olive bubble’ getting all quizzing each other. Meyjitte here borrowing on the technique of spherification. Though not as striking to look at a proper gathering of astringency, natural sweetness furthermore I also picked up on a hint of vanilla, from either the veloute or the scattering of dainty crisp croutons that completed a well applauded dish.
see this...beetroot risotto, I can still smell it....food that leaves a lasting impression
An arousal of the nasal passage welcomed Mr Johnson’s first gift. The delightfulness of the beetroot could have been sniffed for the entire evening. Amid the plump swollen crimson grains of vialano nano rice were also a macedoine of beetroot for honesty. The chevre when stirred through at the table allowing the grains separation. Extremely moorish.
Quail
The quail with a flat approach to presentation allowed a half de boned little creature per serve. Sweet corn came in the guise of a almost ultra wet polenta like puree. The basil as a thick unpassed oil playing the colour thing well on the plate. Great earthy flavours in the quail, interested to know chefs supplier, good quality here. Very nice submission.
a capsule of care, dedication...and flavour
The lamb shank which was to be Chef Boughenout’s final collation saw the braised lamb pulled from the bone. Close conversation divulged a chicken mousse then binding the meat amid sultana raisins and wrapped with a salty prosciutto de parma. The result was off course a testament to it’s slow cooking, a gelatinous full bodied spectacle that surpassed all before. A mound of celeriac puree held the meat in place while sautéed Swiss browns amid the clarified braising juices added to the authority of this dish.
if you sift through the restaurants here, you will find food akin to this...food that makes you think...we need more
The finale was welcomed from Chef Philip Johnson. Though the parfait was highlighted as the main component I took pleasure in the pineapple salsa, more so the chosen preparation method. I guess here either a compression technique or the flesh was cooked en sous vide? Coriander and chilli led to ubiquitous collection of flavours. The sesame tuille gave texture amid the similar smoothness of the parfait and sorbet . Not overly cloying and also refreshing the palate as well.
This to me is the benchmark of dining on The Gold Coast. The crowd was evenly mixed. Young professionals, couples and really good to see a fellow restaurateur and 2 of our cities talented young chefs appreciating and learning from this experience.
Meyjitte Boughnehout, Mary-Jeanne Hutchinson (Director, Craggy Range Winery) Philip Johnson
What more do I say? An absolute gem of an evening.
Gold Coast Food Bank 