Dining here, inside especially you are assured safety from the pompous foot soldiers that inhabit Tedder Ave. Park the vehicle cleverly and you can save yourself being seen, or maybe that’s why you seek a Tedder fix, ego may need a boost, not I it is for the food I arrive. The food in question holds no precursor to it’s locale…solid fare that possesses what some lack…taste.
Darren Glasgow and Leesa Huth have been behind the formula at Chill for just about 4 years now, they are sound operators.
First up comes a confit of duck and cep arancini sitting on a little celeriac puree, a polite amuse gueule. The menu holds many complexities, while enjoying the seasons finest offerings.
I’m happy to dine with the rare-seared blue fin tuna coated with a black sesame seed crust served alongside a salad of fresh herbs and green paw paw. The tuna comes splashed with a dressing of black bean, chilli and lime. The fish has a good fatty presence, some may find the dressing overcoming, I like it’s swagger as it met the fish cutting it’s way through the stout flesh.
Main was the Edeowie Lamb rump. When last talking with Daran he was rapt with this great product, now I can see why. At the moment he is garnishing the lamb with some balsamic glazed kipfler potato, young beetroot, wilted rocket, pan juices and salsa Verde. Sweet, sharp and rich additions to a great full flavoursome cut of meat. Hard to fault any of Chefs renditions tonight, he has kept the integrity of the chosen ingredients.
My dining cohort chose zucchini flowers filled with soft white polenta for her starter and then a salmon dish with poached prawns, green tea noodles and a coconut, lime and lemongrass broth that was cascaded tableside. Both of these sell for $38
Sweets on offer were available for 15 dollars a throw or opt for an assiette for $21, which we did. Hard to believe that in some establishments around the GC that restaurants are charging $15 for bought in sweets…compare that to the one’s here made scrupulously in house. Sweets that made up “the plate” consisted of a raspberry soufflé cooked a la minute, a calvados and cinnamon crème brulee and a toffee and whisky pudding with honeycomb and banana. All were safe desserts to have on offer, the souffle an egg white variety as opposed to a richer pastry cream rendering.
It is top end dining while the food on the night seemed to miss the mark of truly current trends and techniques, (to a degree my fault for envisaging) and I say that in the total respect of what was served. I am still looking for a radical chef to break us through with comprehensively up-to-the-minute dining…think immersion circulators, foraging, understanding the umami content of foods and employ of differing hydrocolloids.
Certainly deserved of an outing for locals or visitors….no tricks or turns, honest fare made with love and a cracking wine list to boot.





